Early Fall Colors

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More Big Bald photos

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Sun 10 Oct - Erwin, Uncle Johnny's Hostel

Seemed to get warmer overnight.  A beautiful, warm fall day - high 70s.

Sunrise was beautiful (picture from inside tent).  I woke up the ECU guys.  They were happy to see sunrise and took pictures.

We packed up and said goodbye.  A short way down the trail, we passed a bird trapping research station on Big Bald.  It is in its 32nd year.  They study song birds and raptors.  The traps had been emptied but we watched them process and release a couple of captives.

We met Sampson on the trail again, for the third time.  He is doing well and seems much happier than when we first met in Pennsylvania.  He is on his way to Springer.

As of today's hike, we have completed the North Carolina / Tennessee border section.  When we go back out, the trail turns to the north through Tennessee and toward Damascus,  Virginia. Goodbye Carolina.

Also as of today, we completed 102 miles in six days.  I am sure that is a first for us.

We have done 388 miles since Springer on Sept. 10.  But we have 331 to go.  Does not look like we will make it by Oct. 30.

Saw a Whitetail Deer today and another grouse.

People

Glen and James in front of the hostel.

Sampson,  Speaker, and Muncher in the hostel.

Whoopie Pie at the shelter.

The couple we shuttled with to the trail.

Sat 09 Oct - Big Bald

Another beautiful fall day.  Upper 60s.

Said goodbye to Easy.  He is headed south to Hot Springs for a few days with his family.  Nice guy.

Hike uphill again today but this time all day (17.7 miles).  We were going to the Big Bald shelter - it is second highest on the AT at 5100 feet (Roan Mtn. is highest).  However, we decided to camp on Big Bald itself (5516 feet).  The Bald was inhabited in the early 1800s by hermit named Hog Greer who, spurned by a woman, lived in a small cave and decleared himself sovereign of the mountain.

We got to the top just after sunset.  It was a beautiful site - 360 degree views and a sky full of stars.  There are five ECU students here tonight.  They will hike to Erwin over the next two days (we go there tomorrow).

On our hike today, we met Speaker going south.  We first met Speaker in Maine, in early August.  He is a SOBO.

We unexpectedly had Trail magic TWICE today.  There was water, gatorade, fruit, and cookies up the trail past Sam's Gap.  Just past there maybe a mile, there were sodas in a spring.  Lots of sugar energy.  Wonderful!  This is the time most SOBOs pass through so that is why we are just seeing it now.  We have been "out of phase".

Cold tonight on the bald.  Already in the 40s.

Fri 08 Oct - Flint Mountain Shelter

Beautiful fall day, high in upper 60s.  Not a cloud in the sky. 

Shared a shuttle from the hostel to Allen Gap with a couple who are doing the same hike we are (Allen Gap back to Erwin).  They are taking four days vs. our three so they are one shelter back down the trail tonight.

Climbed over 2500 feet first thing this morning.  Hiked 17.6 miles over Camp Creek Bald, Whiterock, Firescald Knob, and Big Butt. 

We found Whoopie Pie in the first shelter we came to today.  She is a SOuth BOund hiker (SOBO) we first met in New Hampshire.  At the time she was very sick.  Doing much better now.  Nice to see these people again so close to the successful end of their trip.

Tonight when we arrived in the shelter, we met Dave from Maine, also a SOBO.  We can't remember meeting earlier although we likely passed on the trail. 

Later Easy arrived at the shelter.  We met him earlier NH in late July or early August.  He is also doing a flip flop from Harpers Ferry but like others, now going south from Harpers Ferry toward Springer.  we get to see them again just like SOBOs.  Easy just graduated last May from Clemson in Forestry.

We followed three turkey's up the trail for several minutes before the disappeared into the woods.  Also spooked two grouse.  The spooking was mutual.  The chipmunks were frisky today.

Thur 07 Oct - Erwin, Nolichucky Hostel

Somewhat cold this morning but warmed this afternoon. Highs into the 70s.

Hiked from our shelter 17.3 miles back to Erwin. Sampson, Speaker, and Manchild hiked here too. We are taking Manchild out to dinner. Muncher is also here.

At a shelter under construction, we met Signage, Infinity, and Wildlife, three women hikers. Two have done the AT. Signage lives near our end point and offered assistance if we need it.

Wed 06 Oct - Cherry Gap Shelter

Cold, below freezing last night at elevation. Day warmed into the 40s, still gusty breezes at times.

Up early and got shuttle with James to Carver Gap arriving at 8:15. As we rounded the last turn we saw that the peak of Roan Mountain was covered in white. As we parked, realized the wind was coming through the gap at 30+ mph. As we got out of the car, realized the gusts could push you over. As James drove away, I wondered if we were really ready for this day. With full packs we headed up to cross Roan Mountain.

Fortunately, the trees shielded us somewhat from the wind, at least until we got to the top. It was slow hiking due to slippery conditions. Plus we kept stopping to take pictures.

We saw something I have only see a few times in my life. When the moist air passes by the trees, it freezes on every twig and small branch. It forms white ribbons on all the small branches in the downwind direction. It happened up there and I tried to get a picture.

It stayed cold and breezy all day. At times we were too hot, sweating, then cold so we were constantly changing clothes. Eventually became a pretty fall day although still cold.

In the shelter we met Sampson, someone we sheltered with in Pennsylvania. He also was flip flopping except he is going south from Harper's Ferry to Springer. He is the first of many people we hope to see again. Later came Speaker. We met him in Maine. He like Sampson was doing a flip flop. Also met Easy. He is someone we just passed on the trail in New Hampshire. Hope to see more people we know.

Also in the shelter with us was Man Child. He is 18 years old, Mennonite, and from Ohio. Pretty cool that he is out here alone hiking 200+ miles of the AT.

We hiked 17 miles back into Erwin and the hostel. Tomorrow we get a shuttle south to Allen Gap and hike three days back north to Erwin.

It is cold tonight and I can't type.

Tue 05 Oct - US 19E to Carvers Gap, TN

Cold night and morning when we started hiking. Low 50s for a high here in Erwin but only in the 30s on the trail with rain sleet and snow.

We hiked in the northern end of the hiking around Erwin - from US19E back south to Carvers Gap (near Roan Mtn.). This was an easy, convenient slack pack which we did to test Wendy's knee. The knee passed although it did get sore at the end of the day. It was not easy however.

The weather was colder than predicted, and even colder at altitude, and I was not dressed for it (one shirt and a rain jacket). We hiked up to the first bald. The temperature dropped, the wind increased, there was more fog and the grass was wetter on the balds (causing wet shoes and socks). Then it rained lightly, changed to sleet for about 20 minutes, and then rained some more. We stopped for lunch and then more rain. As we started hiking again, it changed back to sleet, and finally we got almost 90 minutes of snow. It snowed quite hard at times.

We only had our day packs so we had only the clothes on our backs. But we made it and are going out in morning. Knee hurt some but did not lock-up.

We are going out with full packs tomorrow and will complete the trail north of Erwin. Then on Friday, we go out again for 3 days south of Erwin to complete this section. Not the way I planned it, but it works.

Mon 04 Oct - Erwin, TN (zero day)

Cold and rainy again, same as yesterday. High in the 50s.

We said goodbye to Hot Springs, NC and drove to Erwin, TN. It is good to have access to a car, but it can also be a pain. Sometimes it is a magic carpet, and sometimes it is a boat anchor.

We are staying at the Nolichucky Hostel. I have arranged a shuttle with them (James and Glen) for a one day slack pack. This will test Wendy's knee. She says it feels better. If she should have a problem, we will be closer to a car and in any case will return here for the night. If all goes well, we will then go out for three days, from Allen Gap and hike back to here. Then, out for two days to the north and then relocate again. This time to Damascus, VA. We will still have about 5 days hiking to get there on the trail but we are getting there.

Sun 03 Oct - Hot Springs (zero day)

Rainy day in the low 70s.

Wendy's knee is better but not ready for hiking.  She picked a good location to have joint problems.  We went to Hot Springs Spa today to soak in a hot tub.  Of course she had to limp down the hill to the hot tub.  She also went back for a massage.  She feels much better now.  We will probably relocate tomorrow but not hike.

Hot Springs is a nice LITTLE town.  Bluff Mountain Outfitters is a terrific store.  Nice people, huge inventory, and lots of interesting extras.

One clarification:  a few days ago, I included a picture of the NC/TN border sign.  This might have been misleading.  We entered the Great Smoky Mtn. NP from North Carolina.  After 10+ miles, we reached the border of Tennessee.  At that point however, the trail follows the border between the two states the rest of the way through the park and for another 170+ miles.  Then it veers north through Tennessee and into Virginia.  Right now we are straddling both states.

Pictures are from the crosswalk and sidewalks in Hot Springs.

Sat 02 Oct - Allen Gap to Hot Springs

Cold this morning,  about 40.  Warmed nicely into the 70s.  Very clear - the best since we started in Georgia.

Today we were better dressed.  I wore shorts, rain pants, two shirts, a jacket, and gloves.  By the end of the day, I was in the shorts and tee shirt only.

I hiked 15 miles today.   Daniel of Bluff Mountain Outfitters drove us to Allen Gap so we could hike back to Hot Springs.  We had a big climb out of Allen Gap taking a break at Spring Mtn. Shelter with another couple from Nashville out for a long ttail hike.  We eventually reached the Rich Mountain Fire Tower.  It was a beautiful, clear day.  I climbed the tower and took some pictures while Wendy tried to "fix" her knee. 

It did not work.  It was her right knee and she could not finish the hike.   We hiked down to a road crossing.  Wendy waited there while I finished six miles to town.  I got the car and drove back to pick her up and return to town.  We will take a zero day tomorrow and decide what we can do.

The folks here at Alpine Court Motel helped greatly giving her a cooler, ice, and a heating pad. 

Fri 01 Oct - Hot Springs, NC

Definitely felt like fall. Cool most of the day, low 40s when we started with breezes and fog.  May have been in the 60s in the afternoon.  Warmer down in Hot Springs.

Up at 5:30, at the outfitters at 6:00 for a shuttle, hiking before 7:00.  First time we hiked in the dark in the morning.  And cold!  We were definitely not dressed for it. 

We hiked 20.6 miles today, from Max Patch Rd. to Hot Springs.  Max Patch is a bald 0.8 miles up from the road.   We hiked up in the dark, hoping to see sunrise.  We were in time, got a few pics, and then the clouds and fog came.  That's OK because it was too cold to wait.

The hike today was great.  Max Patch was a great start and the trail beyond it was like a park.  By 5:45 we were on the main street on Hot Springs walking to the motel.  A shower and dinner before 8:00 - a much better day than yesterday even though we did 20 miles.

Tue 28 Sep - Davenport Gap to Max Patch

Yesterday it rained hard so we just rested and went to a movie. We did get a message from Andi that she was safely back from her 14 day trip into the jungle. We spoke with her yesterday and got an email from her today.

Her trip is more of an adventure than ours right now so I plan to copy her email into this journal for those of you who may be interested. It will follow this message.

Today we had "Harry" from the Grand Prix Motel arrange a shuttle for us so we could go out for a one day. Weather turned out good of course.

We hiked from Davenport Gap to Max Patch Rd. We crossed Snowbird Mountain which is a bald. That is where the pictures were taken. The radar station belongs to the FAA.

Tomorrow we go back and complete the Smokies - should take 2 days (32 miles). Then we will head north with the car to Hot Springs NC and continue hiking around there.