Katahdin

Katahdin
Aug 17 2010 - End of Part 1

Friday, April 30, 2010

Snake in Bake Oven Knob Shelter

30 April - near Ashfield Rd., Lehigh Furnace Gap


Warm spring day - high in mid 70s.  Cool this morning but who cares.  We were inside.

"PA Rocks" is NOT a compliment but a statement about the most significant feature of the AT in Pennsylvania.  I know there are a lot of rocks in these mountains but I swear they go out of their way make you climb up and over too many of them - when there is perfectly level ways around either side, and when there is no view at the top.  I wonder how many injuries there have been over the years.

The picture is the second snake we saw today.  This one helped Wendy decide we should keep hiking and sleep at a campsite.

We are now only about 5+ mi. from Palmerton / Lehigh Gap.  I think we may take a zero day too since the forecast is for rain and thunderstorms.

The Knife Edge

Location Note from #Compass
Altitude: 1546 ft
Latitude: 40°43'49.9" N
Longitude: 75°46'6.1" W

Thursday, April 29, 2010

Location

Location Note from #Compass

2318-2634 W Penn Pike
Andreas, PA 18211
USA

Altitude: 1402 ft
Latitude: 40°42'25.6" N
Longitude: 75°48'35.9" W

29 April Blue Ridge Summit B&B (Rt. 309)

Warmer last night and today.  No frost but still glad we were in an enclosed shelter.  Low mid 30s and high mid 60s with deep blue sky.

Hiked to Allentown Shelter and kept going to Rt. 309 and Blue Ridge Summit B&B.  It was a good day for hiking but it was the most rocks we have had.  We are very sore but uninjured. 

But the real reason we continued is that Don and Kat were going through.  Don broke his crown eating a pretzel on the Pinnacle.  There was a local hiker there who golfs with a Dentist friend.  Don has an appointment in the morning.

Tomorrow we say goodbye to Don and Kat.  We continue north while they do another section to the south (after the Dentist ).

The rocks get worse so we will do short days.   Tomorrow we do Knife's Edge and Bear Rocks.  

The B&B is nice.  Good restaurant and bar - like a roadhouse.  It is run by Ken.  He is very nice and did shuttles for Don and Kat so they could "slack pack" (hiking without your pack).  Ken also has a very good chef.  Wendy had Duck in pear sauce.   Later we will use the Jacuzzi.   This is not a hiker hostel   $$$.  But if you can afford it, it is a nice stop.   (The only advantage to hiking when your older, rather than younger, is that you can afford to take more of these stops.)

Wednesday, April 28, 2010

28 April (Wed) Eckville Shelter

COLD!!!  Close to freezing overnight and it might have gotten to 50 briefly when the sun came out but mostly cloudy, windy, and cold all day.  There were several brief snow/sleet showers too. 

Hiked 9.5 miles to a nice shelter that has a caretaker in a house nearby.  It is fully enclosed with bunks and water from a spigot outside.  There is separate building for the bathroom with a solar shower.  It is good that the shelter is fully enclosed because tonight it is supposed to be 32 in town with a frost warning.

Sharing the shelter with the Vacationers again, Don and Kat from Fla.  They celebrated 1900 miles today.  They still need to do Shenandoah Nat. Park so we may see them again next year. 

We were at the Pulpit and at the Pinnacle.  The Buzzards put on a great show. 

View from the Pulpit

Location Note from #Compass

Altitude: 1631 ft
Latitude: 40°35'47.9" N
Longitude: 75°55'53.0" W

Tuesday, April 27, 2010

27 April Windsor Furnace Shelter

Fred picked us up at the hotel this morning and we went to breakfast.   Then he took us to the Post Office to mail our packages: bounce box 2 town stops down the trail, food to the next stop (Palmerton), and some gear back to Shana.  After that,  we said goodbyes and we walked across the street to the trail and headed NE.  He is really a great guy. 

The hike began along the stream but the trail quickly turned and climbed up 1000 feet.  Overall, a short day of about 7 miles.  Tomorrow we will do about 10 miles. 

The leaves are out much more noticeably than before.  This will help with the sunburn.

We are sharing the shelter with the "Vacationers".  They are a couple from Florida, a little older than me who have been section hiking once or twice a year since 1988.  They have completed 1900 miles of the AT.  We will likely be in same shelter with them again tomorrow.

It is supposed to be near freezing tonight in town so it is likely to be freezing here.


Location Note from #Compass
Reservoir Rd
Lenhartsville, PA 19534
USA
Altitude: 1119 ft
Latitude: 40°35'24.5" N
Longitude: 75°56'27.6" W

Fred and Wendy outside the Port Clinton Post Office

Monday, April 26, 2010

Port Clinton: 25 - 26 April (zero days)

We decided the Port Clinton Hotel was not the place for us.  The bed was terrible and they played loud music all night.  But the real problem was the attitude of the owners - as if they really did not want hikers.  Who else would stay there?

Fred Kauffman, the "trail angle" has really been something.  He has helped hikers most of his life, but especially since his retirement 8 years ago.  We went to his house yesterday morning and he brought us to another motel in nearby Hamburg.  He waited while we checked in (could not get in a room at 9:00), and then took us to a giant Cabela's were we spent the morning restocking (gas for the cook stove; new rain jacket, etc.).  Today he picked us up again.  We went to breakfast and then to the Post Office in Port Clinton to pick up our food shipment from Shana and our bounce box which we send to ourselves further down the trail.  Then he took us shopping at RiteAid before dropping us off back here at the hotel. 

Tomorrow we go back to the Post Office before dropping us off at the trail.  It sure is nice not to have walk a couple miles to all these places like we did in Fayetteville.  Fred really is nice and he is full of stories from past hikers he has met.

We are ready to go back out now.  We have supplies and we both feel much better.  The next 10 days will be tough.  This is the section that gives PA its reputation for rocky trails.  We will take it slow. 
One thing I could not do was get to a computer so I could not update the map of our progress so far.  It is just not possible to do it from the Droid.

Saturday, April 24, 2010

24 April. Port Clinton, PA

Back on the 30s last night.  Sunny day with clouds building in the PM.
Rained some but not before we made it to town.  Port Clinton is small, maybe 200 people.  The Port Clinton Hotel is OK, old like the Doyle but cleaner.   Also like the Doyle, it has a great restaurant.
The most noteworthy thing today is that we both took a tumble.  I tripped on a stick while walking on a level trail with few rocks.  Wendy slipped while coming down a very steep trail into town.  She slid, fell, and rolled down the very steep hillside before getting stopped.   We will both have some new bruises in the morning.

My knee did OK again today.  I wore the brace all day.  We did not see Box Man and Drifter so I could not thank him for the brace.  I did see Gone Walking - he is staying here too. 

I think we will take a couple of days rest but probably at a different hotel.  Fred Kauffman, a local "trail angel" has offered to help us so we will see him on the morning about a ride.

Location Note from #Compass
Clinton St
Orwigsburg, PA 17961
USA
Altitude: 495 ft
Latitude: 40°34'57.0" N
Longitude: 76°1'28.5" W

Friday, April 23, 2010

Location

Location Note from #Compass

South Manheim, PA
USA

Altitude: 1479 ft
Latitude: 40°32'57.9" N
Longitude: 76°9'10.0" W

23 April. Eagles Nest Shelter

Cold last night and again tonight - mid to upper 30s.  Today was beautiful, sunny with Tibet blue sky and a cool, sometimes almost cold breeze.

I noticed that most of today the trees were not filled in with leaves.   The buds had just popped open and the new leaves were just beginning.   We are starting our fourth week of early spring.

Great hiking day.  I wore my knee brace over long underwear so it would not rub the skin raw.  That worked and the brace helped (thanks Box Man).  The knee was fine today with only minor pain.

For the first time, I missed a turn on the trail today.  We were in a straight path and I was concentrating on the rocks.  The straight path came to a forest road and there were no white blazes marking the trail.  We got out the map saw were we should be.  Backtracking cost us less than a mile but still too much.

We got to shelter before 4:00 including stopping for water at the stream on the way in.  "Gone Walking" was already here.  He previously thru-hiked all but the last 100 miles.  He is currently section hiking the AT and when he gets to the Mass.-Vermont border, he will have completed his section hike of the entire AT.
  
Box Man and Drifter must have gone on to Port Clinton.  I imagine they got here in the early afternoon and decided that if they kept walking, they could be having a beer and dinner at the Port Clinton Hotel by this evening. 

Tomorrow, Port Clinton for us!

Thursday, April 22, 2010

22 April. Hertleine Campsite (5 mi. Past Rt. 501 on ridge)


Warmer night last, mid 40s then sunny this morning followed by unforecast light rain in the afternoon.  High in low 60s.

The first time it rained, it did not look like much so we huddled under my poncho.  It rained lightly but the wind blew hard - we stayed mostly dry and it was over in 10 minutes.  The second time there were big, dark clouds so we did the full rain gear drill.  It rained hard all around us but only lightly, on and off, for 15 - 20 minutes on us.  The third time it rained, the sun was out.  We just kept walking in our hiking cloths.  It felt wonderful.

The knee was the big question this morning.  It felt good, actually no pain when we started.  But it did not last.  It began to hurt and I had a few mis-steps, but it stayed manageable.  Our goal was to make it to the 501 shelter (about 4.1 miles) and evaluate there.  We walked more slowly and carefully and made it in good time.  We decided to go on but first lunch....

The rumors are true!  You can get pizza at the 501 Shelter.  Wendy called the restaurant listed in the shelter.  They did not deliver but gave us the number of the place that does.  We had to walk about 500 feet out to highway 501 but the owner drove up and gave us a large pizza and two large cokes.  We went back to the shelter, sat at the indoor table,  under the octagonal skylight, and ate most of it.
After I rested and Wendy treated her blisters (see picture), we continued our hike to Hertleine Campsite (another 5.7 miles).  It took a while going slowly, so we arrived late but feeling much better than we do most days.  We were also still full so we skipped dinner.  The campsite is nice - between two streams and with a picnic table.

The rocky parts of the trail are getting more common, as predicted (see picture for an example).  Not good for our knees, ankles, and blisters.

We are sort of hiking with Box Man and Drifter.  We have stayed in the same sites but they are always nearby in their tents.  I wore the knee brace Box Man gave me and it helped a lot.  Tomorrow we all are  headed to Eagle's Nest then Saturday to Port Clinton for some rest and food.  That is the end of their section hike.

Fisher Overlook - before Rt. 501

Wednesday, April 21, 2010

21 April William Penn Shelter

Cool wet morning, about 40+.  Became more cloudy with just a little light rain.  High in the low 60s. 

A rough day today.  When we woke,  the outside of the tent was wet from a little light rain and/or heavy dew.  The inside of the tent was wet from condensation (this happens).  But somehow, part of Wendy's sleeping bag got wet.  We wanted to dry the tent.  We needed to dry her bag.  Wet bags will not keep you warm. 

We hung up both bags and hand dried the tent.  Then we waited for the sun to come up to help us.  The tent and my bag did fine.  I built a fire (which was not easy) to speed up Wendy's bag.  All this delayed our departure until about 9:00.

The climb up from Swatara Gap was approx. 1000 feet.  Once I recovered, we did good time along the crest of the ridge.  That is until my right knee started hurting, not from any specific injury, just gradually increasing pain.  This the knee that has been operated on twice.  I had to stop twice but eventually it loosened.  Naturally, this is when the trail became very rocky.  Very difficult and slow going (maybe 1/2 mile per hour).  It took forever to get to this first shelter - our plan was to continue four more miles to the next shelter.

I have soaked it in cool water and will put heat from a stick on pad on it tonight.  It is feeling better.  Tomorrow we will try to go the four miles to the next.  If OK, we will continue.  If I can't, we will have to get off the trail at least to get more food.

On a more positive note, the temperature was good for hiking and we did not have to hike in the rain.  While still at low elevation, we saw a large area of nothing but May Apples.  At higher elevation, we walked through a couple of areas where the entire forest floor was covered with new shoots of ferns, all 8-10 inches high, close together with almost no other kinds of plants.  Just the forest canopy overhead and the ferns underneath.

We met Box Man and Drifter today, NOBO (north bound) section hikers who have hiked much of the AT over the last 10 years.  Box Man is loaning me a knee brace.

We also met Southside yesterday and again today.  He too started at Harper's Ferry (HF).  He has started a thru-hike from Springer the last 2 years and both years had to quit at HF.  The first year, he had knee problems leading to surgery and the second year he had heart problems that lead to open heart surgery last fall.

Tuesday, April 20, 2010

April 20 Swatara Gap

Warmer this morning but still cold, hi 30s.  Beautiful day hiking today.  We did 13 miles.  We passed up another shelter to get some extra miles.  Tomorrow we have a choice of shelters depending on our distance.  That depends somewhat on the weather.  Getting cloudy and looks like rain may come tonight which will slow us in the morning.

Lunch beside a stream again today.  We are definitely in coal country as we saw coal laying on the ground and the trail was black in places.  After lunch, the trail crossed a stone arch bridge near a lime facility.  They divert some of the stream through lime to increase the ph level to counteract acid rain.   Good for the trout.  We saw some wild azalea and dogwood today, both blooming.   Have not seen seen much of either.

We are camping in the tent again.  We are in a state park, beside a stream, but between two highways.  Hope it doesn't rain until after after we start hiking.

Monday, April 19, 2010

19 April Sharp Mtn.


Cold this morning, not freezing but close and there was some wind.  It was a cool hiking day but that is not bad. The sky was so blue it was like Tibet.  Cold tonight again, 37 in the valley.  Will not be back in the 40s for a low until Wed. and the it will rain.

Hiked along a ridge then dropped down about 1000+ ft to Clark Valley and Clark Creek, a trout stream.  Had a late lunch by the stream amid rhododendron and under hemlocks.  Then we had a 3 mile hike back up the opposite side of the valley. 

On the way up we met "The Gentleman", the fourth of the speed hikers.  He is British, tall, and lean.  He left on Feb. 16.  Also a nice Guy.

Got to the top exhausted.  Hiked until we found a campsite.   Will probably pass the shelter again tomorrow.   The shelters are far apart and awkwardly spaced so we may sleep in the tent a lot.

Sunday, April 18, 2010

18 Feb. Peters Mountain Shelter

COLD again.   Maybe 50 and only 37  tonight.  Should be warmer tomorrow.
Left the Doyle today with our blisters and sores.  I wanted to stay another day but Wendy said we should hike.

Eric D. caught up to us after we left.  We walked and talked for a while but he left us behind as we crossed the Susquehanna.   

We had to hike back up on ridge and covered 11.6 miles today.  My 3 blisters from Friday are OK and the older ones are almost healed.  Wendy is having problems now and had to pop a blister tonight.
Sharing the shelter with two brothers who has section hiked the whole trail.  Big shelter.   We put up the tent on the 2nd floor for privacy and to stay warm.

After 9:00 (hiker midnight).  Time to sleep.  Wendy is already snoring.

The Doyle Hotel

The Doyle is a great hiker hotel however don't make reservation for your vacation.  It is the kind of place only someone who has been sleeping on the ground will think is acceptable.  However, the bar and food are great.   Pat and Vickey are wonderful to hikers and all their customers.  And it is a center of AT information and activity. 

Last night we met "Bag of Tricks".  He and others at the bar were talking hiking and he said he was there to meet "Lead Dog" and buy him dinner and a room.  Seems they met in GA when Lead Dog left in March and again later in Damascus VA. 

Eric D. is Lead Dog and he has been hiking  somewhere every year for the last 10 years.   He is a speed hiker and back on the AT this year.  He is my new favorite to finish first this year (even though he is "not racing").  He is a day behind Toe Man and a week+ behind Nature Boy.

Also saw Blueist at the Doyle.  She will leave tomorrow,  a day behind us.  We hope/expect to see her again

Table Rock

The view and Wendy attending to her blisters. .

Goodbye Duncannon

Saturday, April 17, 2010

16-17 April Duncannon (Doyle Hotel)

Warm night last night in Darlington Shelter, probably middle 50s.  Partly sunny and cool at first today but warmed to about at least mid 70s.  Supposed to rain or storm but it only rained slightly as we were coming down the mountain to Duncannon.  Thunderstorms did come in the evening and night but by then we were safely in the Doyle hotel.

The hike was about 11.5 miles starting with a decent off the ridge, crossing the valley, climbing a small ridge in the middle of the valley and the climb up the other side of the valley.  From there, we walked the length of the ridge to where the Susquehanna crosses it.  From there, we had an incredibly steep decent down to Duncannon.  Along the ridge, there were rocks, rocks, rocks.  It is very difficult walking because you have watch every step.  Slippery leaves on the rocks, rolling rocks, hidden rocks, all lead to trips and twisted ankles.  From what I have heard, this is just the beginning - the rest of PA is full of rocks. 

We also saw a black snake about 5-6 feet long.  It behaved very strangely.  Usually a snake will leave if you give it enough room.  This one was leaving but as I went by, it turned and coiled into a strike position.  It would not leave and Wendy had to walk around in the woods.  It also made a vibrating sound, as a rattler does but it did not have rattles (see picture Wendy sent). 

We are at the Doyle Hotel.  It is a 105 year old hotel that was originally one of the Andheiser Busch hotels when it was build.  It is an AT hiker institution and caters and supports AT hikers.  It is fairly cheap.  It is however very old.  I think some of the dust here is they hotel itself decaying.  Everything is in disrepair.  Last night a drunk came in and tried to get in out room.  He went away and found an empty room.  Oh well, not sure how long this can continue.  It has a lot of history but you cannot support the maintenance  needed on what hikers are willing to pay. 

We took a zero day and it was needed.  Coming down the mountain, I got new blisters.  Wendy also has blisters now.  Plus,. the sore from my pack on my hip is not healed.  So we are resting today and plan to start hiking again tomorrow.

Friday, April 16, 2010

Thursday, April 15, 2010

15 April Darlington Shelter (between Boiling Springs and Duncannon)

Another beautiful day on the AT, mid 70s.

We headed out of Boiling Springs today and just kept going, all the way across Cumberland Valley and up the other side.   We did 14.4 miles today, more than planned.  The weather and trail were good but the 800'+ climb was no way to end the day.  We have 11-12 rocky,up and down miles tomorrow to get to Duncannon where we will take a zero day.

Cumberland Valley was a very pleasant change from the wilderness AT.   Scenic farm land, a  chance to make good miles, a beautiful little village (Boiling Springs) and a great place to stay (Allenberry).
The rare 50+ year old female thru-hiker was out in force today.   First met Bluevist who hiked the whole trail 8 years ago.   She is from Wake VA.  She is still deciding if she might try another thru-hike this year.  She started the day before we did in Harper's Ferry.    Then met Beachy from NC who is section hiking her way north from Springer.  Both ladies and Wendy all over 50.  Unusual.

Also met Bumpa again going south bound on his next north bound section. 
Leafs and blooms!  Saw lots of Mayapples beside the trail.   Also lots of wildflowers - Violets,Bluettes, Bluebells, and others we do not know.  It is getting very pretty.

Saw another snake today.  Not a black snack but patterned green, yellow, and brown.  It was probably a water snake since we were beside a stream.

More pics from. Cumberland Valley

Passing over I76

Wednesday, April 14, 2010

14 April Boiling Springs, PA, Allenberry Resort

Beautiful day, low 60s, blue sky with puffy white clouds.

The Holly Inn is a great place for hikers to stay.  They brought us breakfast to the room and drove us back to the trail for free.

Nice hike, several climbs an too much big boulder scrambling. Came to the northern end of the Blue Ridge Mtns.  Dropped down into the Cumberland Valley and will spend tomorrow and part of the next day crossing it.  The change was abrupt.   We walked out of the woods and into lush farmland. The trail goes along the edges and between fields, some just plowed and some with grass/hay or alfalfa that is that bright, new green that you only see in spring.  We arrived in Boiling Springs and the guy in the regional ATC office recommended The Allenberry Resort (http://www.allenberry.com).  It is incredible!   Don't understand why but they have an hiker special rate of $25 per person.  I had a great dinner of trout, salad, vegs., and steak and baked potato soup (extra of course).  HIKERS, you want to stay here!

I think we have this hiking thing figured out.  Not really...  soon enough we will be sleeping with the mice again.   But southern PA has really nice shelters and really nice trail towns.

We met Bumpa today - a section hiker from Canada who has done the trail from Springer Mtn GA to here.  He comes down twice a year. 

We also met Toeman, a thru-hiker who left Springer on 14 Feb. (he has no girlfriend).  He is about 6 days behind Nature Boy who left in early Feb.  However, Toeman says he has done the whole trail including the Smokies.  Nature Boy still needs to go back and make up that section so right now, I give the lead to Toeman in the race to be first to complete a thru-hike in 2010.

I need to go to the privy (see picture) then time for bed.

Out of the forest and into Cumberland Valley

ATC Mid-Atlantic Regional Office

The quaint village of Boiling Springs

The grounds at Allenbury

The privy at Allenberry Resort (and thru-hiker shelter)

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

13 April Mount Holly Springs

Cold and wet.  It was raining when we left and the temperature was only in the high 30s.  The high was 50, maybe,  but not on the mountain.

We walked the rest of the way through Pine Grove SP and then up the mountain.  On the climb, I  warmed up to the point of sweating but Wendy was still cold in spite of wearing 4 layers.  At one point I had to hold her fingers because they were freezing cold. 

It rained all morning and tapered in the afternoon.  It never got warm but we both eventually warmed as we walked. 

All the rain had the leaves trying to open up but cold held them back.  They should really come out tomorrow when it warms.  I noticed the leaves are out much more here in town.  Looks like spring.

We had lunch at a shelter and walked 3 more miles to PA 94.  I called the number in the Trail Hiker's Companion and in a few minutes we were picked up and driven to the Holly Inn in Mount Holly Springs.  We are in a room, fed, and our stuff is drying. 

Actually we are starting through a section of Pennsylvania that is very developed.   I may take advantage these next few days!

Lynn, here is a picture of me as you requested.  Not much different yet
.

Monday, April 12, 2010

Thanks for the comments....

Thanks for all the comments. I read them when I am in a town/hostel/motel where I have a computer with access to the internet. 

Regarding the maps, I will try to update the map when I have the computer-internet access. On the trail, the best I can do is update the last location map and then only if I have a data connection.

12 April Pine Grove Furnace State Park

Cold again last night (mid+30s), especially when you have to get up to go to the bathroom.  Hi in low 60s with clear blue sky's.  No complaints. 

Spring has arrived in places.  We walked down through a hollow which must have had a southern exposure.  There were not just buds but new leaves on the bushes and some trees.  Even saw a dogwood in bloom.  Woke this morning to the sound of birds.

We walked 9.9 miles today to get to Pine Grove Furnace State Park.  Had a climb up first thing, then mostly flat with some up and down followed by gradual decent to the park.  We got here sometime after 3:00.  Early!  We felt good and could have walked more.  That is good because soon we must start averaging 12-15 miles/day to have a chance of finishing. 

We passed the mid-point of the AT today (mid-point for those who started in Georgia). 























We met 2 groups of overseers today, one from the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club (PATC) and the other from the Susquahanna AT club.  When we crossed the road into the park we left PATC territory.

Took a final break beside a small trout stream to soak our feet.  It felt very good.















Most of our ailments have improved.  Blisters have improved thanks to the use of duct tape.  I have tried a pair of calf height nylon hose (as recommended by Jason) to prevent further blistering.  They work great - much better than liner socks I have been using.

Pine Grove Furnace SP seems very nice - it has lots of historic buildings.  We are staying at one, the Ironmasters Mansion.  It was once a hiding spot in the Underground Railroad prior to the US Civil War.  It is now part of the park and has been converted into a hostel.  It needs some maintenance work and unfortunately they have started it in our wing. But we each get a bunk and because there is only us and a family from France here, we have our own private wing with a choice of 14 bunks.  Not bad for $27.  It is popular with hikers.  It is going to be even colder out tonight so it is nice to be inside.


Wendy just learned that only 10-15 women over 50 complete a thru-hike each year. She is very excited.


11 April - Birch Run Shelter

Cold last night, mid 30s.  Today upper 50s, blue sky with some clouds.

Had weekend hikers at Quarry Run shelter last night and more on the trail today - all nice people.  Met one fella from Boston who is doing the same hike as us - he started at Harper's Ferry a few days after us and is going to Maine (then maybe Georgia north (like us)).  He is traveling more miles per day than we are and passed us today.  Nice guy but unless something goes wrong for him, we won't see him again.

Went through some tall pine forests today - mostly flat with just a few climbs.  Birch Run shelter is nice.  It is a big log cabin in a large, open, grassy area.  This part of PA has a lot of nice shelters.  The shelters in VA, along Skyline Drive (near where we live) are trashy by comparison.

As we travel north, it seems we are staying ahead of spring.  Many trees still do not have buds yet.  A few cherry trees are blooming but that is all so far.  I think spring will catch up to us soon.

Saturday, April 10, 2010

Caldonia State Park

10 April Quarry Gap Shelter

Bright sun, deep blue sky.  Hi in the 60s and low in upper 30s.

Slept in and had a nice last breakfast at Flamingo's.  Right Spot gave us a ride back to the trail.  Fayetteville was a nice break.

Short hike today along a trout stream to Caldonia State Park.  Talk with 2 fishermen name Rock who have family in Stanardsville (Camiletti) and have fished in the Rapidan and Rose Rivers.

Then climbed and hiked through pine forest (nice because there are still no leaves on the trees and I am sunburned) toward Quarry Gap.  As we got close, we entered an incredible Rhododendrum forest. 

We met a man walking with a rake and a bucket of pansies.  Turns out he is the PATC overseer for Quarry Gap Shelter and about 12 miles of trails.  He is quite a character and has lots of stories (like the rattlesnakes mating on the trail to the privy).  This shelter is the most amazing one we have seen.  It is more like a park (but you can't drive here).  It has two separate sleeping areas connected by a roof with a picnic table and fireplace in between.  His name is Jim Stauch (trail name is "Innkeeper").  The shelters here have all been nice but this one is over the top!  (More than 5 stars?).

Tomorrow will be a normal hiking day to the next shelter.

Forgot to mention that 2 days ago we both saw a wild turkey.  Not much wild life on the trip so far.

Friday, April 9, 2010

Rite Spot and the Flamingo

09 April "Zero Day" Fayetteville, PA

Sandpiper here. This morning we woke up in a real bed! I can't believe how sore every muscle felt. There's no way I felt this way every morning for the past seven days and didn't notice, but I believe this must be true. As soon as I stepped out of the room to walk to our now favorite restaurant, The Flamingo, for breakfast, the musle-memory kicked in and it felt great to be moving again. Amazing!

The first chore of the day was to go through our packs and organize piles: clothes to wash (pew!); cold weather clothes not needed to be shipped back to Shana; and extra items not needed now, but will be needed in the future to be shipped in a "bounce box." The idea is that the "bounce box" will travel ahead of us from post office to post office and we will take items from it as needed. Kinda like having our own resupply store.

Next, we walked 1/2 mile or so to the laudromat. We opted to take advantage of paying by the pound and have the laundress to the laundry for us. Although we warned her the garbage bag we were handing her contained "hiking" clothes, she was not phased and said we were the 2nd set of hikers to come in so far this season.

Onward we walked to the Post Office. In case you're wondering, I"m wearing my long underwear, rainpants, down jacket, and a pair of sock liners since everything else is being washed - fortunately the weather is chilly and windy, otherwise I'd look really outta place. I guess folks here are used to hiker's "town attire." All went smoothly at the PO - the clerk was extremely helpful. To avoid purchasing a box, she emptied a box containing LOWE's flyers for us and calculated variable price options for shipping. Our food shipment was there waiting, so now we have a new 7 day food supply. Before departing, I asked customers getting their mail about an internet cafe, but got a blank stare. Then asked about a library - ah, a reaction! Was told it's not far (16th of a mile?) a little more than a stone's throw. So, walking again.

HA! Stone's throw? After a good 3/4 of a mile - nothing. I saw a store with an OPEN sign so went in to inquire. I can't quite describe the store's contents, but the owner was very pleasant and offered to drive us to the brand new library as it's quite a bit further down the road. Fayetteville has wonderfully helpful folks.

The library IS brand new and well equipped with computers. Hal spent a lot of time editing the blog (be sure to check out the maps). I made phone calls to family and, at Hal's suggestion, the remainder of my time here has been the obvious. We now have a long way back to the laundromat and hotel - so much for a "zero day."

The hike has been great so far and yes, I will enjoy getting up tomorrow morning and know I'm hitting the trail again. I think.

Thursday, April 8, 2010

08 April Thur. Fayetteville, PA

Hot (low 80s), mostly blue sky and no rain during hike (but close).

It was 11.2 mi. to Fayetteville and it was not easy.  We were very tired from yesterday.  And the trail was not easy, very rocky in places.  Climbing over boulders with a 40+ pound pack is hard and it is slow.  Plus the trail would climb a ridge, go over some rocks, then go back down the ridge on the SAME side.  And worse, it did this repeatedly.  The trail term for this is PUDS (Pointless Ups and Downs).  I want to complain to the owner and ask for my money back.

Only met people twice today.  First we met a guy going south with a Walmart sleeping bag in one hand and an small,old, canvas backpack.   He was low on water and wanted to know how far to get it (1 mile downhill).  It became apparent he was homeless.  This unfortunately began happening when the economy became bad.  Basically unable to get a job, some are choosing to "hike the trail" rather than be "homeless in the city".  They rely on handouts from weekend hikers who usually bring too much food (when a thru hiker does this it is called "Yogi'ing").  Hopefully this does not become too common.  Hopefully the economy improves and eliminates the need for this.

Later we met two guys out for "long" hike.  They asked about trout streams so I told them about the ones we had seen today.  I hope they caught dinner before the rain.

We made it to Fayetteville just after 5:00.  Called the Rite Spot / Scottish Inn and they came and picked us up on Rt 30 and brought us to town.  We are very tired but it is worth it.  Showers, Sheets, and Real Food!  Thunderstorms arrived just as we walked to our room.

We had dinner at the Flamingo Family Diner.  Cheap and good.  Probably eat there 3 or 4 more times. 

We both have had our first falls now.  Nothing serious, but good bruises and scrapes.  This combined with our blisters means it is time to heal.  We will take a "zero day" meaning no hiking.  We will leave Saturday morning.  Hope to find a computer so I can do some clean-up on this journal and update our location history.

07 April Antietam Shelter





























It was a great decision to keep hiking.  Antietam Shelter is beautiful.   It is a log cabin in the pines, on a trout stream near where Rattlesnake Run flows into Antietam creek. 5 stars.  We are the only ones here.  Baths in the creek just before dark.
 
Hike was good.  12.5 miles is good progress in the first week.
Tomorrow it is supposed to rain but our plan is to not stay in that shelter but to continue straight to Fayetteville, PA (10.4 mi.).  Should be easy after today.

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Leaving now...

Looks like we will be doing some night hiking. 

Spring break must be over.  We have seen no hikers on the trail today.

07 April Deer Lick Shelter

Kenny was not satisfied with driving Wendy to the store. He came back with first aid supplies and a Tyvek suits that can be used on the rain or to sleep on a cold night.
















We are at Deer Lick Shelter having dinner. We did 9.9 miles today and feel good. Decided to go on to Antietam Shelter for the night. I think the Coke and Snickers bars at lunch must have helped us a lot. Total today will be 12.5 miles. Probably too much but it will shorten the hike tomorrow in the rain.

First trail magic

Kenny the ranger here at Pen-Mar Park is taking Wendy to the STORE!

Real food and drink are on the way.

Our trail today...

Made it to PA!
Rough trail most of the day.  Lunch at Pen-Mar park on the border.

06 April Devil's Racecourse

Blue sky's again today and hot,  86.  But it started overnight with surprise thunderstorms.  It was very nice to be in a shelter and listen to the rain on the tin roof.  Some clothes got wet but no big deal.

Spring is arriving on the Maryland mountaintops.  So far, the trees have been mostly bare and only an occasional wild flower to be seen.  Today the buds on the trees were really popping out (you could almost here them).  It was hot after the clouds burned off but there were frequent cool breezes.  How much is a cool breeze worth?  A lot to me today.  Too bad they are not available in July.

Snakes - another sign of spring.  We saw black snakes (with tiny yellow speckles) in the trail both yesterday and today.  The one yesterday was 6-7 feet and fat!  It was the biggest black snake I have ever seen.
We met Nature Boy on the trail today.  He is on his third thru-hike of the AT.  He left very early to be this far, especially with the weather we had.  He spoke of 6 feet of snow in places and it was difficult/impossible to find the white blazes that mark the trail.  He had to skip over part of the Smokies. 

Why so early?  Why three times?  Every year there is a small group that leave Georgia after the New Year (or as soon as possible) in an unofficial race to see who can finish first (not fastest, first).  I think. Nature Boy is currently in the front of this group.  He said others had also skipped sections and all will has to go back finish them later.   With different people skipping different sections, I predict controversy at the end.  He quickly left us behind. 

The shelter is terrible (Wendy gives it 1 star) but there is a nice stream next to it and it is easy to get water.  We also took a wonderful bath.

Tomorrow is a big day.  We will hike 10 miles and around lunch time we will enter the state of Pennsylvania.  Maryland will be done!

Gun shots in the distance.  Time to go to bed.

Monday, April 5, 2010

Ens. Cowall Shelter and how to put away the food after dinner

05 April Ens. Cowall Shelter

Two more beautiful days - hi 70s except Wendy's thermometer read 86.  Too hot.  In any case, 87 is the forecast for the next 2 days, then rain and much cooler at night (40).

Stayed at Annapolis Rocks last night.  Everyone raved about the view but looked like one of many views from a Skyline Drive overlook.  We hiked 9.6 mi.  I am starting to have some problems: mild blisters bruised shoulders and hips.  We have 2 low mileage days coming so that is good.

Met Pancho and Lefty, two early 20s brothers from PA.  They live near the half way point of the AT.  They are hiking to GA this year and ME next year.   We talked about heavy packs.  I tried to explain that did not need their machete and axe but they are young and strong and value them too much.

Today we are at Ens. Cowall Shelter.  Many fewer people hiking AND we have the shelter all to ourselves.  Plan to get up and out early and go to next shelter (only 5 mi.) before noon before it get hot.

Sunday, April 4, 2010

03 Apr Rocky Run Shelter


Another beautiful day - just like yesterday.  The weather is really cooperating - makes up for previous hikes.   9 miles today.  We are are very sore - strained muscles and bruised shoulders and hip bones (from the pack).   But feet are good (no blisters) and that is important.

No data signal here at Rocky Run Shelter so I cannot mark my position in Google Latitude nor can I send this tonight.  (I have the long. and lat. below but cannot load them to latitude history unless I manually edit the KML file.)  

Rocky Run Shelter is appropriately named - the trail descending to the shelter was like a stream bed full of rocks but with slippery, dry leaves hiding them in places.  The shelter is new this year - 2 story, 3 sided log cabin, with windows and a porch.  Very nice!

Very crowded all day again.  Lots of day hikers as well as overnight campers due to Easter and school spring breaks.  There are at least 12-14 people here tonight but most are in the old shelter or in tents. 

We are sharing the new shelter with Shaun and Andrew, brothers who are a senior and freshman in high school.   Their parents dropped them off this morning in Harper's Ferry.  Essentially, they hiked today what took us 2 days, and got here before we did!  Their parents must really trust them to let them go out camping alone.  But they seem to be very mature and responsible, and quite knowledgable about hiking and camping.  We talked about hiking and the AT specifically - a very pleasant evening before an early bedtime. 

Because we have the bottom half of the shelter to ourselves, I am typing this while laying in my sleeping bag.  I would not normally impose like this. 

Time to put this away and go to sleep.

Location Note from #Compass
Altitude: 939 ft
Latitude: 39°27'44.4" N
Longitude: 77°37'52.5" W

Friday, April 2, 2010

First day! 02 Apr 2010

Beautiful day!  Hi 70s, blue sky.

Janice, Shana's friend took us to Harper's Ferry.  She took our picture in front of the train station, then we hiked across the train bridge over the Potomac river and the AT follows the C&O canal path along the river.  Then the AT turns north into the mountains.



  


























Tonight we are at Ed Garvey Shelter.  Full of Boy Scouts.  We are in our tent.  There are 4 other tents and 2 hammocks.  Crowded!  Spring Break.

Food bag is hung in a tree.  Time for bed.